Assisi is a younger tailoring home primarily based within the Huam-dong space of Seoul. It was solely established three years in the past, however the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been slicing for 15 years.
Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the crew are extra style-conscious than a lot of the bespoke world, and that was the very first thing that attracted me. The imagery I’d seen was of chic, drapey tailoring – tasteful but trendy.
I’d additionally heard, nonetheless, that the execution was good, and so once they I had the prospect to satisfy them in Florence this previous January, I took up the chance to have one thing made.
Though they don’t at the moment journey to Europe or the US, they do cowl a good a part of the PS readership by travelling to Australia, Singapore and Thailand. And so they plan to journey to London, New York and Taipei sooner or later.
In Singapore and Bangkok, Assisi are hosted by The Decorum, which has outlets in each cities. It was they that helped prepare the fittings, they usually have been hyper organised.
I picked out the fabric prematurely – an dark-grey herringbone tweed – they usually introduced it to Florence. We met on the Tuesday afternoon for measurements and session, they usually made the jacket up for a primary becoming on Thursday.
They’d hoped to finish the jacket after one becoming, and that first becoming (under) was definitely good. As in, the steadiness was excellent left to proper and again to entrance, each side even (that sounds simple, however in fact nobody is symmetrical, as you see as quickly as you placed on a ready-made go well with) and an awesome form by the again into the nape of my neck.
In the long run they determined they wanted a second becoming, nonetheless, and once they heard I used to be going to be in Japan, flew there to satisfy me. (In any other case we might have met once more in Florence this June.)
In Tokyo, once more we would have liked another becoming than initially thought. We met at my resort – The Imperial – on the Tuesday, however ended up doing a last tweak at Sarto Ginza on Thursday (Sarto being an alterations home that they used for the intervening work).
I’ve to say, it was by turns humorous and intimidating having so many individuals watching. At the least in Florence everybody was unfold out round their beneficiant residence, however in Tokyo we have been squeezed collectively, all wanting to see how the jacket seemed.
At anybody time there have been two folks from Decorum, three from Assisi, plus me and the photographer Alex. And Moto after we have been at Sarto.
Individuals at all times ask whether or not I get particular therapy, and I’m usually pretty assured that I do not. Not that some may not attempt particularly laborious, given the end result will probably be so public, however quite that I speak to sufficient different clients that I do know if the product is inconsistent elsewhere.
Plus, for those who’re not a very good tailor it’s laborious to fake. The outcomes are there for all to see, and tailoring shouldn’t be that forgiving. You possibly can look good in an ill-fitting shoe, however not a go well with.
Nonetheless, when there are 5 totally different folks wanting on the method your jacket hangs it may be laborious to carry to that perception.
I confess the eye did make it laborious for me to focus on the match and magnificence.
In Florence, I initially tried on a jacket belonging to one of many tailors, to get a way of the reduce. They like an even bigger match, with vast shoulders and beneficiant lapels. I felt the lapels have been slightly a lot, so we sketched on some new ones with chalk, decreasing the gorge and narrowing the width.
In Tokyo I diminished the shoulder width. Once more they like a barely dropped shoulder, but it surely was erring on the facet of an excessive amount of. You possibly can see the unique width on the left shoulder within the picture under.
It took me a couple of minutes of strolling round and searching on the jacket earlier than I felt assured of the change. It’s at all times good apply to provide the shopper slightly time and house to do that, as nobody (even me) feels assured of all their opinions instantly. However generally tailors want reminding of this.
Different modifications have been minor, but in addition ran to lowering or shaping. The again wanted extra suppression for instance, and was nonetheless very comfy when it had it.
Assisi describe their model as their very own however influenced by southern Italian, with ending and particulars which are extra Milanese.
On my expertise thus far that appears truthful, however I’d add that their model is robust and makes the world of distinction. It’s so refreshing to be surrounded by a crew of tailors the place you’ll fortunately gown like every certainly one of them.
The Milanese affect comes from grasp tailor Kim Min Soo, who is essentially self-trained however went to Milan at one level to study below Paulo Rentini. He educated the remainder of the crew, which includes six tailors and one director.
I’ll evaluation the finished jacket in a few weeks. I may additionally look to one thing broader on Korean tailoring, as this expertise definitely justifies it – bettering significantly on my earlier expertise with B&Tailor’s then agent in Europe.
The material is Harris Tweed C001L, which I chosen primarily based on seeing this image of a made-up jacket. Each time I can lately, I fee tailoring after I’ve seen one thing made up. It reduces the possibilities of errors a lot.
Overview of the completed jacket coming in a few weeks.