Ukraine’s president, Volodymyr Zelensky, retains warning of an impending nuclear tragedy. His army intelligence chief, Kyrylo Budanov, not too long ago mentioned the Russians have “drafted and accepted” a plan to sabotage the Zaporizhzhia Nuclear Energy Plant, Europe’s greatest.

Many native officers have fallen into line, and final week communities throughout central Ukraine snapped into motion and held emergency drills to arrange themselves for a catastrophe that the officers imagine may unfold a radioactive cloud over the whole space.

However right here on the streets of Nikopol, the town that lies simply throughout the Dnipro River from the Russian-occupied nuclear plant, its cooling towers poking up by the afternoon haze, the perspective is a bit of completely different.

“I’m not apprehensive,” mentioned Nadia Zhylina, a retired manufacturing unit employee. “Under no circumstances.”

She was wheeling a cart down a sunny boulevard, toenails painted, mascara on. The one factor she was radiating was calmness.

If there’s a image of Ukrainian insouciance within the face of clear and current hazard, it’d simply be this metropolis. Nikopol lies inside 4 miles of the besieged nuclear plant, however for those who arrived on Monday and took a stroll round, you could be fooled into pondering issues had been regular.

Individuals waited at bus stops, lugged heavy plastic luggage as they exited supermarkets, pushed strollers down sidewalks. Site visitors circulated easily. Seagulls squawked within the sky. On the metropolis’s major park, a bunch of youngsters did what youngsters the world over do — they lounged on their backs within the excessive summer time grass and stared at their telephones.

“I’ve a beautiful life,” mentioned Maksym Baklanov, considered one of them.

Not solely is Nikopol a hair’s breadth from the nuclear energy plant, it additionally will get shelled almost every single day by Russian troops simply throughout the river. However about half the town’s prewar inhabitants of 100,000 nonetheless lives right here, and there was no seen exodus, regardless of all of the current warnings of impending doom.

Past grit and defiance, there could also be one other clarification for that, and it’s shared by numerous Ukrainians who mystify outsiders by persevering with to dwell perilously near the entrance traces of the most important European battle in generations.

Many individuals merely would not have different choices.

In fact they’d relocate to a safer place, they are saying, if — after which they rattle off a protracted record of ifs — if they might discover a new job, if they’d the cash to hire a second house, if they’d a superb automotive, if they’d an apparent place to go.

“We always speak about leaving,” mentioned Yana Lahunova, Maksym’s mother. “I’ve one other boy, too. However the place ought to we go? Who actually wants us?”

She mentioned that everybody on the town was speaking in regards to the nuclear plant and the likelihood that the Russians, who seized it final 12 months, may do one thing. However that doesn’t translate into fleeing.

In some methods, it’s a miracle nothing has occurred.

By no means earlier than has one of many world’s largest nuclear amenities fallen into the bull’s-eye of a large-scale battle. Already, components of two reactors have been hit by artillery and by a large-caliber bullet, although most engineers imagine the plant is powerful sufficient to resist such assaults.

The Ukrainian engineers protecting the plant from melting down are reaching their very own breaking level. They’ve been working for months at gunpoint, based on interviews with present and former staff. And Russian troopers have dragged scientists and technicians off to a spot known as “the pit” the place they had been interrogated and crushed, a former director mentioned.

Now the Ukrainian military is on the march, making an attempt to show to itself and the world that it might reclaim territory that the a lot larger Russian Military has seized. Because the long-awaited counteroffensive begins to indicate small positive factors, Ukrainian officers say Russian troops on the plant are more and more determined.

In response to Ukrainian officers, the Russians not too long ago mined the cooling pond that retains the reactors from melting down and have begun to withdraw a few of their very own consultants, an ominous signal, they are saying.

“The scenario could be very harmful,” Mr. Zelensky mentioned on Saturday. “We’ve obtained info from our intelligence that Russia is planning to trigger a radiation launch.”

Western consultants have expressed much less alarm. The traditional knowledge is that the Russians know a nuclear incident may carry terrifying, and unknown, penalties and subsequently it’s unlikely — although not unattainable — that the Russians would deliberately set one off.

The worldwide inspectors who stay on the plant reported not too long ago that they’d not seen any mines however mentioned they wanted extra entry. Biden administration officers mentioned that they didn’t imagine a risk was imminent however that they had been watching “very, very carefully.”

Ukrainians are attempting to take some consolation from that.

“I can’t argue with American reconnaissance,” mentioned Yevhen Yevtushenko, Nikopol’s regional army administrator. “They have to be proper. I hope they’re.”

Mr. Yevtushenko is an imposing determine with a protracted grey beard, crew lower and pistol strapped to his hip. When requested why he wasn’t ordering an evacuation of Nikopol if the nation’s leaders really imagine a nuclear diaster is within the offing, he mentioned: “I want folks would go away however we will’t drive them. Ukraine is a free nation and nothing has occurred — but.”

As if Nikopol wanted any extra hardships, it ran out of water three weeks in the past. When a significant dam that was occupied by the Russians was all of the sudden destroyed, the reservoir that Nikopol and plenty of different communities relied on ran dry. Town is now scrambling to supply residents with bottled water and water from different sources.

This leads to some extent that Ukrainian officers have begun to make: If the Russians, as many Ukrainians imagine, blew up the dam and prompted widespread environmental mayhem, why ought to anybody doubt they’d sabotage a nuclear plant?

Down by the dried-up river mattress, one can sense Nikopol’s grander days. Previous, strong homes, white paint flaking off their bricks, look out over the river the place folks used to race sailboats in the summertime and within the winter skate throughout the thick ice.

“We used to name this place the Inexperienced Sea,” mentioned Alla Syrotenko, the deputy army administrator, who grew up right here. “It was so lovely.”

Now, she worries, it may turn into “a lifeless zone.”

Ms. Syrotenko stood trying for a very long time on the nuclear plant within the distance. The solar beat down on her and on the profusion of wildflowers within the yards.

“I guess the Russians will do one thing,” she mentioned. “I don’t know if it will likely be massive or small, however they’re making an attempt to frighten us.”

“However,” she added, “I would be the final one to depart.”

Oleksandra Mykolyshyn and Evelina Riabenko contributed reporting from Nikopol.