Bulgari’s Lucia Silvestri Talks About Excessive Jewelry, Venice, and Journey Plans

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Lucia Silvestri poses with fashions on the “Bulgari Mediterranea Excessive Jewellery” occasion at Palazzo Ducale on Could 16, 2023 in Venice. (Picture by Pietro S. D’Aprano/Getty Photographs for Bulgari)

Belief Bulgari to kick off excessive jewelry season in probably the most epic method. Held in Venice on the extraordinary Palazzo Ducale, the two-night extravaganza noticed the great and glamorous flock to the Floating Metropolis to have a good time the home’s new Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment. And for over 40 years, one exceptional lady has been answerable for realising the Roman jeweller’s fantastical creations: Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s Jewelry Inventive Director. Contemporary off the home’s magnificent exhibiting, we sit down with Silvestri to debate the Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment, her favorite items from the gathering and her upcoming adventures.

The theme of this 12 months’s excessive jewelry assortment is Mediterranea. I wished to ask you when you have a selected reminiscence you like that’s linked to the Mediterranean.

I’ve so many recollections concerning the Mediterranean, from Rome to Sicily to Greece, to Africa. It’s a journey, and I cherished this theme from the start, as a result of it’s a journey. And all of the locations that impressed me, I’ve been there many occasions, ranging from Rome and Naples, Palermo, Greece, so it’s very inspiring.

How would you describe the spirit of this excessive jewelry assortment?

It’s a mix of cultures. Now we have plenty of international locations across the Mediterranean, and it’s actually a mix of cultures. So as an example, and that is an instance of top-of-the-line combos [NB: see photo below] — once I began to consider this necklace, I began with mandarin garnets that jogged my memory of the deserts of Morocco, and the flavour and spices of Morocco. I assumed that it could possibly be the precise mixture — this very sparkly, heat [stone], filled with solar and fiery color — with one thing extra delicate, and on this case, we use citrines.

It’s the primary time that we used mandarin garnets and citrines collectively in excessive jewelry — it’s a brand new mixture. Yearly, now we have a brand new mixture, and this 12 months, that is one among these new combos. The thought could be very a lot Morocco: its desert, dunes and spices. And right here, there’s Venice, with the home windows — the motif is from Venice — so that is actually a mix between two cultures. I like the concept of this mix and the craftsmanship. It’s actually superb. It’s a chunk of artwork.

It’s great. You’ll be able to take a look at it from the entrance and the again.

I find it irresistible, that is my favorite necklace. I began from the gems: I purchased the gems one after the other, after which we minimize them in an ideal method, in a Bulgari method. Now, it’s our masterpiece.

My subsequent query additionally pertains to gem stones, since you’ve all the time stated that gem stones are all the time the centre of your concepts. What have been a few of your favorite gem stones to work inside this assortment?

This assortment? It’s very tough… I like this one [NB: see photo below] as a result of it has greater than 200 carats of emeralds and I like this one particularly as a result of I adopted the chopping of the gem. At the start, once I noticed the gem, it was not polished, not minimize, and I mentioned with the proprietor of the gem as a result of I noticed a sugarloaf and he was fascinated about a faceted stone. So I attempted to persuade them that for Bulgari, one of the best ways to make use of the gem was making it a sugarloaf, and in the long run, I satisfied him that this was one of the best ways, with these very easy corners. It isn’t sharp, it is vitally female, very mild, and so we may take into consideration a really mild, elegant necklace. And it’s versatile, so you’ll be able to put on it with out the emerald or the pearls, or collectively.

Extremely transformable as properly. What’s your favorite piece in the entire assortment?

It’s tough, however I like this one [NB: See below].

Due to all of the combos of the mandarin garnets and every little thing?

Sure, as a result of the inspiration was so distinctive.

And what was probably the most difficult piece to make on this assortment?

Each piece could be very difficult [laughs]. We prefer to have a problem from the craftsmanship, from the inventive perspective. The Serpenti could be very difficult, as a result of the craftsmanship evolves yearly, and yearly it will get higher. So, every little thing is a problem.

I’m positive you’ve travelled to Venice many occasions. What are a few of your favorite locations to go to in Venice?

The Palazzo Ducale can be a shock for me. I’ve seen the Palazzo Ducale many occasions, however yesterday and the day earlier than yesterday, that room [NB: the Sala dello Scrutinio] was superb, so inspiring. That was my first time, so I used to be wanting on the ceiling and I dreamed about new necklaces, new rings and new earrings and a complete assortment in a single evening.

So we would see a set impressed by Venice sooner or later?

My inspiration comes from travelling. Venice is one place [that inspires me], and, in fact, Rome. I can not overlook that Rome is all the time our first supply of inspiration.

I’m all the time very struck by your very tactile strategy with regards to designing. Once I was watching Contained in the Dream final 12 months, I noticed that you simply picked up the gems, you performed round with it, blended and matched them. I’m very to know, why do you continue to do what you do? Why are you continue to impressed to maintain designing?

As a result of I like what I do. It’s probably not a job, it’s a ardour — and I really feel that you would be able to really feel the eagerness behind our jewelry. We proceed to do it with an incredible ardour, not solely due to me, however as a result of our staff — and all of the groups round me — are passionate. From artisans, to designers, to the patrons, we do it with pleasure. We benefit from the vitality of the gems, and we can not overlook that we’re working with a present from nature. This reward makes me completely satisfied, so I’m completely satisfied to work each time. I don’t work, I play.

And for my final query: you journey a lot. So the place are you off to subsequent? What will likely be your subsequent journey?

My subsequent journey is just not actually an journey, however I’m visiting Japan due to the excessive jewelry presentation there. I like Japan.

This text first appeared on Grazia Singapore.

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